Eager to visit my youngest son, Jerry and wife, Kelly prior to our planned trip to Spain, I arrived in Atlanta on June 5th. Once Megan and Ethan (grandchildren) left home, J & K moved from the suburbs to the City, saving long arduous commutes. Both seem to be thriving. This was my first visit to their new “old craftsman” house where Kelly artfully and thriftily did some great interior decorating and, together, J & K re-arranged the outdoor layout to provide a welcoming party space. Lots of blooming flower borders, too!
Rain each day quashed my plans for potential birding in the neighborhood, but as Kelly reminded me: “We’re in the city, now. Please don’t wander around as you did in the suburbs.” (Both went to work each day.)
Grandson, Ethan joined us on our flight to Spain. Living independently, he’ll finish up his undergrad years at Georgia State next year. Departing Atlanta for our first leg up to Philadelphia, we were scheduled on an overnight flight to Spain. With baggage checked through, Kelly approached the desk at the gate in Philly to confirm our arrival and checked seating for possible changes.
The desk clerk had something else on her mind. It seems the booking agency (who had copies of Jerry and Kelly’s passports) failed to inform them of what she was now hearing from the desk clerk: “Your passports do not extend 90 days beyond the end of your visit. Therefore, Spain can deport you upon arrival.” Ouch! Not without trying, Kelly concluded there was no way around the “hitch” in plans.
Into her “let’s solve this problem” mode, she located the expedited passport office close to the historic area of Philly; checked out some rentals nearby and settled on a loft apartment within walking distance of that office. After ascertaining that our luggage would be pulled from the scheduled flight and held for our one on June 13th, we set out on our unexpected adventure.
Found our “loft”; and, yes, the passcode opened the door.... to this view:
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| Photo taken from the top back down the steps |
Fortunately, we had only backpacks but, still, none of us exactly ran up that flight of 48 steep steps! Unit door opened into a spacious loft that resolved any trepidation we had about the last-minute arrangement. Went out to get a bite to eat, then settled in for the night.
Jerry & Kelly left early for the passport office arriving at 7:30 for a 9:00 opening time and were fifth in line.
With the help of eBird, Ethan (with binoculars) and I would set off for Franklin Square. But first, he’s a coffee drinker and we had a place right next to the loft to get a good start on our morning.
While Franklin Square was within several walking blocks, we didn’t realize that the park would be hosting:
Despite the Chinese Lantern Festival, we saw a couple good birds in this green "open" space:
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| GRAY CATBIRD in the center of Philly |
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| CEDAR WAXWING - good find anyplace! |
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| The Festival contained many bird and animal recreations such as this one above |
Since Ethan had yet to visit INDEPENDENCE HALL and the LIBERTY BELL, we covered those two historic sites before heading back toward the loft.
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| Ethan in front of INDEPENDENCE HALL with statue of George Washington |
As we turned to go back, we heard from Kelly. “All done…except for returning at 1:30 p.m. to pick up the passports!” Yay! We hooked up and enjoyed a leisurely brunch together.
After a short wait at 1:30, Jerry and Kelly emerged triumphantly! Good to go.
So, instead of departing on June 11th, we arrived in Madrid on June 13th. Putting a good spin on that change, Kelly reported that we could not have gotten into our apartment until 4 p.m. (arriving at 7:30 a.m) so the extra day meant $$ spent for our convenience of getting into the apartment directly after our flight.
We waited for the manager to show up with the key to our place on Almaden in the center of the city. The square at the bottom of our street (didn’t know all the cities were so hilly) was full of people waiting, walking, smoking (ugh!), going hither and yon. On the wall of the building directly across from where I stood was a clever vertical live garden of mostly desert plants.
But we were here - in Spain...a first for both Jerry and myself. Swifts (birds) were vocalizing overhead as they constantly soared, dived and caught insects.
Madrid is very centrally located. Once into our very adequate apartment, we crashed for a couple hours in the morning before heading out together for the Royal Botanical Garden a few blocks away.
Madrid is very centrally located. Once into our very adequate apartment, we crashed for a couple hours in the morning before heading out together for the Royal Botanical Garden a few blocks away.
The Botanical Gardens were, of course, well manicured with myriad pathways, even a maze through tall green shrubs.
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| WATER LILY |
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| MONK PARAKEET at fountain drinking and bathing |
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| ORCHIDS |
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| BIRD OF PARADISE - greenhouse plant |
After a couple hours of strolling the grounds of the Botanical Garden, Jerry suggested we continue on into town to Plaza Major.
A wide-open people area surrounded by sidewalk vendors and standard restaurants along the streets with outdoor seating.
To get a good start on our next full day, Kelly joined me to explore another nearby city park for potential birds and just whatever else we found. Finding a nice number of birds on the ground (GREEN WOODPECKER) and in the stream of water at Retiro Parque, I took only bird photos that are posted in my previous blog, "Casual Birding of Spain. . ." The park also had an amusement area, a small lake for boating, and a concrete walk filled with vendors. Kelly knew what she wanted to purchase for friends, so we did a thorough inspection of goods being sold there.
Having walked two miles already in the park, Kelly and I caught up with Jerry and Ethan to head into town again. With no destination other than exploring, we came upon places we might want to eat dinner; we were up and down and across so many streets, I was more lost than I ever was in the evergreen maze at the botanical gardens. Shopping (or looking) was a given for Kelly. They were also eager to point out to me things that I may not have picked up on by a cursory look.
When we passed a statue of a soldier in a horizontal position, they told me to look closely. The wrinkled muddy uniform was inhabited by a real person!! Pay to take a photo! I didn't. But will not soon forget him in his dark still face and mime position. I'm guessing the structure is clay or concrete and he crawls into and fills the "statue" space each day.
We walked home for siesta, then set out again with vigor for more exploring. By the end of that evening, I had developed a blister on my foot. What? Never happens! That morning I had changed my "Foot Solutions" shoes to my regular daytime birding sneakers containing a portable arch support. Don't know if it was a wrinkle in a sock or a moving arch support that contributed to the blister but by the next day, it was quite tender.
Taking pity on "Nana" who caved with a blister on our 10-mile walking day, we rode the red double-decker bus (on and off anywhere all day) to the contemporary part of Madrid in the morning and to the historic park (that we had covered fairly well in our walking the previous day) in the afternoon. They had never ridden the sight-seeing bus before so were pleased to get to look at places beyond walking distance. [blister healed by next day]
Tapas for Kelly that day were similar to what she wanted every day: Jamón.
On our walk home that evening after a later dinner, I saw a hollyhock that reminded me of my childhood home. Had never included it in any of my own gardens.
By Sunday (6/16), we were on our way to Granada via public transportation (bus). The remainder of our time would be spent in the Province of Andalucia - including Granada, Seville and Cádiz. See map above for city locations.
In Kelly's usual, "Damn what did I do now?" form, she had resolved the previous night, a lost reservation for our apartment in Granada. [Don't get mad at your bank and pull out all your money when you've used a card from there to hold an apartment!] Booking agent told us we were in luck - and, were we ever! Megan, Karlea (and her cousin, Kyle) were already there when we walked into the very spacious 4 bedroom, 2 bath modern apartment with a rooftop patio. (at a lesser cost than the original reservation)
[Megan and Karlea met at Salamanca University last year. When Megan stood up and identified herself as being a Spanish teacher in a Middle School in Atlanta, GA, Karlea raised her hand, stood up and said, "So am I." Thus, the collegiate friendship. Kyle, Karlea's cousin, took a vacation from work to pop over from Boston to visit them.]
From the rooftop patio, we could see all of the ancient fortress/castle of ALHAMBRA, including this portion at one end of it. Swifts swirled around us up there; it was the first time I managed a half-way decent "catch" of a photo. Each morning, I awoke to their vocalizations - either contact calls or maybe identifying for other birds, their own location. High-pitched whistled scratchy call.
With tickets purchased well in advance, we enjoyed our total tour of Alhambra later in the morning/afternoon.
I was quite taken by all the gardens and blooming flowers.
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| Jerry, Babs, Kelly, Ethan at Plaza Major
Lots of new sights, sounds and smells. Enjoyed my first paella here; ended up being my least favorite, partially for needing to use my fingers to peel the shrimp, dig out the clams, etc., etc. (did't think to take hand-san) We had eaten dinner relatively early for Spanish custom, but we were feeling jet lag.
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Having walked two miles already in the park, Kelly and I caught up with Jerry and Ethan to head into town again. With no destination other than exploring, we came upon places we might want to eat dinner; we were up and down and across so many streets, I was more lost than I ever was in the evergreen maze at the botanical gardens. Shopping (or looking) was a given for Kelly. They were also eager to point out to me things that I may not have picked up on by a cursory look.
When we passed a statue of a soldier in a horizontal position, they told me to look closely. The wrinkled muddy uniform was inhabited by a real person!! Pay to take a photo! I didn't. But will not soon forget him in his dark still face and mime position. I'm guessing the structure is clay or concrete and he crawls into and fills the "statue" space each day.
We walked home for siesta, then set out again with vigor for more exploring. By the end of that evening, I had developed a blister on my foot. What? Never happens! That morning I had changed my "Foot Solutions" shoes to my regular daytime birding sneakers containing a portable arch support. Don't know if it was a wrinkle in a sock or a moving arch support that contributed to the blister but by the next day, it was quite tender.
Taking pity on "Nana" who caved with a blister on our 10-mile walking day, we rode the red double-decker bus (on and off anywhere all day) to the contemporary part of Madrid in the morning and to the historic park (that we had covered fairly well in our walking the previous day) in the afternoon. They had never ridden the sight-seeing bus before so were pleased to get to look at places beyond walking distance. [blister healed by next day]
Tapas for Kelly that day were similar to what she wanted every day: Jamón.
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| Ham (Jamón) was everywhere (except on my plate) |
Architecture of both the contemporary and ancient areas were astonishingly detailed to me.
On our walk home that evening after a later dinner, I saw a hollyhock that reminded me of my childhood home. Had never included it in any of my own gardens.
By Sunday (6/16), we were on our way to Granada via public transportation (bus). The remainder of our time would be spent in the Province of Andalucia - including Granada, Seville and Cádiz. See map above for city locations.
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| This map shows the Iberian Peninsula of shared by Spain and Portugal |
[Megan and Karlea met at Salamanca University last year. When Megan stood up and identified herself as being a Spanish teacher in a Middle School in Atlanta, GA, Karlea raised her hand, stood up and said, "So am I." Thus, the collegiate friendship. Kyle, Karlea's cousin, took a vacation from work to pop over from Boston to visit them.]
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| Narrow staircase to rooftop patio |
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| Evening on our patio from where we viewed visitors at Alhambra still climbing the stairs to get the best view of Granada. |
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| From our patio, looking in toward the City of Granada |
I was quite taken by all the gardens and blooming flowers.
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| Wisteria, unless the name in Spain differs (as it does with some birds) |
From that far place at the Alhambra, I took a photo back toward the general area of our apartment.
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| The tall building toward the left with shade over patio is similar to ours but I think we were at the next level up |
We dined in town again, of course. As we walked home from our day in town, I took the following photos:
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| Designating Granada as "The Renaissance and Baroque City" 1705-1722 |
and it was on similar cobbled streets we walked to our first Flamenco entertainment. When traffic appears on the street, pedestrians hug their backs to the buildings while small cars or worse, delivery trucks, also small but bigger, come by.
We had tickets in advance for the Zambra Gypsy Flamenco in a cave within easy walking distance from our apartment. The cave has a white-washed interior but is small and provides a very intimate experience for dancers and audience. Megan and Karlea were seated against the cave wall; we were at the end zone, so-to-speak.
Wow! So intense!! Mostly, I took video that I may post on FB. But hand-movements and the constant foot stomping (hard clogging?) were almost exhausting to watch during their hour plus performance! Maybe that was because one of the dancers appeared to be even older than I am!!
Back at the apartment, I heard Megan and Karlea talking about going in town for some coffee and pastry in the morning. Music to my ears. I invited myself along but by then, everyone had decided to join in. Not quite as early as I had hoped but still coffee and pastry. We ate inside the place since it was easier to push tables together in there. As it turned out, I managed to put everyone into gales of muffled laughter and then when I caught what I had said, peels of laughter. Dang. A bunch of young handsome Spanish men serving us. I got good service!! (I'll share privately but not here.) And, as I had promised, I picked up the tab there where we all ate well for under 30 euros.
Then, we departed Granada for Seville. Kyle had split for Boston that morning but the rest of us went by hired car to the City of Seville, with one stop along the way, all located in the province of Andalucia.
In addition to agricultural fields (asparagus, artichoke, olive trees and many, many fields of sunflowers), we spotted some good birds from the car!
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| Asparagus at car-moving speed |
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| Olive Trees Different trees; different olives; And staggered planting provide the right kind of olives when needed. |
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| Old fortress ruins as it stood between two worlds--at peak of cliff. National Geographic site for viewing ruins and surrounding landscape. Buildings are white-washed. |
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| Karlea, Ethan & Megan exploring the old fortress |
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| Church (dome-shaped building), Montefrio |
The Lion is replicated throughout and is the sign of Alcazar of Seville, the royal palace developed by Moorish Muslim kings. Alcazar is an outstanding example of mudejar architecture---partly Gothic; partly Islamic; prevalent in Spain in 12th to 15th Centuries.
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| This tile is old and worn; others show the Lion carrying a cross and wearing a crown |
After lunch and siesta, we must have slipped into the "Spanish Way". We enjoyed dinner from 9:00 to 11:00. The young ones stayed out much later.
Was it the next morning? when we set off for Cádiz? I think so.
Again, we saw good birds along the drive from Seville to Cádiz that were posted to eBird.
As we closed in on Cádiz, the suspension bridge was constructed to look like it was suspended by sails. Did the camera catch that? Looked awesome as we approached.
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| Bridge to Cádiz |
Can't sign off without adding the bidet that was available in the bathrooms of each apartment. Early on, Karlea saw me looking at it and burst into song: THIS IS HOW YOU DO IT . . .
Megan and Karlea left by bus for Salamanca on the 22nd; we departed by train to Madrid the next morning.
What a great family time and rather smart of Kelly to pull Megan and Ethan together into the family, away from their usual groups of friends that might call them away. That was wearing on Ethan by the time we returned but, all in all, we had a great time....from UNO to walking:[70 miles total for me throughout the trip; 80 for Kelly who made occasional shopping runs].
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| L-R: Jerry, Megan, Ethan, Karlea, Kelly. |
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