Hopi Culture: Exploring the Life and Lands on Three Mesas, Navajo County, AZ


Sunday, October 25 to Saturday, October 30, 2015 (includes driving time)
Nearby Route 87 provided a direct route north to Second Mesa and the Hopi Cultural Center. With a stop in Winslow to “stand on the corner” and watch the one car go by, we gave tribute to the Eagle’s song before entering La Posada Hotel on the same US Route 66, jog off 87.

With friend, Margie whom I had invited to join me, we admired the La Posada — the last of the Harvey Houses built along the Santa Fe Railroad. I especially wanted to visit this 1929 Spanish hacienda designed by architect, Mary Jane Colter. Also recognized for her magnificent buildings at the Grand Canyon, she outdid herself here when she designed not only the spacious building but decorated the interior, planned the gardens and oversaw construction to meet her fine standards of light, color and materials. After strolling the gardens and the interior open spaces, we enjoyed a pause in the Turquoise Room dining area. The big plus was the fact that this woman had accomplished such a distinguished career in the 1920s and I wanted to see her designs.

Continuing then, due North on Route 87 on our 230-mile journey, several mesas came into view far ahead on this very long straight highway.  We didn’t know then which was First, Second or Third Mesa of the Hopi, but we do now.

PART I - HOPI EXPERIENCE
In late afternoon we met some of the other 24 participants in this Road Scholar educational and cultural program, including Program Coordinator, Ray Coin, a native Hopi, who provided our outstanding experiences.

Located in high desert at 6,000-foot elevation
Hopi Cultural Center
Our room plaque with turtle design symbolizing water (each room,different symbol)

Little did I know that Margie had a specific reason for visiting the Hopi. She managed to provide an awesome “moment” for all of us to add to our overall enjoyment. More later.

Ray Coin, cultural lecture (and program coordinator, van driver, etc.)

Knowing very little about the Hopi, I was interested in Ray's lecture. All of my "take-aways" from Ray's talk below are very abbreviated and oversimplify some very complex issues.
1) they are an ancient (5 A.D) indigenous nomadic people whose original land usage stretched from Chinle to Flagstaff to Supai to the Mogollon Rim.

2) in 1950, the US government requested proof of land owned and took 80% of the Hopi's traditional use areas. Hopi philosophy didn't include ownership but rather sustainable use of that which was available. The remaining allocation of land to the Hopi has been contentious ever since because of Navajo encroachment. A peaceful, non-materialistic people, the Hopi have had difficulty navigating the politics of Washington, D.C., to their own advantage. Their lack of political clout may also be attributed to their autonomy; not all villages send representatives to the Hopi Tribal Council - formed to deal with such issues. Mostly, I think they don't spend their energy focusing on gaining power in D.C.

3) the word "Hopi" refers to people who are perfectly behaved; it is not a tribal name but means Life (and way of life).

4) Hopi culture today consists of 12 autonomous villages, a few of which choose to continue living without water and electrical services. The most recent census counted 13,157 Hopi living in 12 villages comprised of 33 clans that are matrilineal with marriage within a clan forbidden. Women exercise control over real estate and social fabric.

5) their creation myth tells of emerging from the Underworld. Elders in the underground kivas listened to a Yellow Warbler who heard their prayer. Hopi now live in the 4th level of their religion which was found by another bird - a Shrike that found an opening in the sky. 

6) Hopi is all about Life (and how to live it) and Water; that is their religion. They are known for their dry farming techniques, relying on their prayers for moisture.

Before each day's activities got underway, I tried to get out for a stroll through the land surrounding the Hopi Cultural Center with binoculars and camera in hand. I was beginning to relate to these very friendly Hopi who live by farming.

Before breakfast, moon setting
House Finch
A lot of trash on the ground bothers me wherever it is. Here it accumulates from careless people plus "res dogs" who just wander about and apparently get into the trash cans at night. The dog below, one of about five that were loose on the grounds, followed me as if "protector" each morning. It walked beside me and stopped when I did.


Free-roaming well-mannered dog 
Each morning we watched various artists demonstrate their techniques of pottery making, jewelry (silver overlay) and Kachina doll carving.


Dorothy Ami and husband, Emerson, potters


My friend, Margie, who brought a ceramic bowl for identification
Over twenty years ago, Margie had purchased a "lot" of items at an estate sale for under twenty dollars when she had noticed the Indian-looking bowl among them. She sensed that it was Hopi but really didn't know. Dorothy confirmed for her that it was indeed Hopi and identified the artist whose name was barely visible on the bottom. In her own friendly manner, Margie was later telling the story of her bowl to the woman who ran the Museum on the grounds. Long story short, that woman told her it was made by her own Mother's sister!  Garnet Pavatea, who had made the bowl, used to give demonstrations at the Museum of Northern Arizona in Flagstaff where much of her work can still be seen.

Each afternoon we took field trips to explore the life and land of the Hopi. Photography was prohibited on these trips. Monday's trip took us out by Keams Canyon where we could view the land and villages we passed. We would discover later that the bed springs leaning against many homes are used for drying corn since they allow air to pass below the corn spread on top.


Another example of extreme resourcefulness are these cutting tools for silver overlay made by honing the tips of masonry nails. Fern makes the tools because she can't handle store-bought tools for her very fine art.

Fern, the silversmith, played many roles during the week. 

Each afternoon she drove one of the vans transporting us to various spots like the Walpi Village on First Mesa, the piki bread-making house and Oraivi Village tour and visit. At Oraivi I was thrilled to hear a Rock Wren and then see it when it popped up on top of a nearby rock doing its little curtsy from time to time. Generally speaking, birds were scarce except for Common Ravens. But, this wasn't a birding trip so there may be many more around that just weren't visible on our excursions.


Fern Lomayestewa, silversmith, during one of our afternoon trips. I liked her long hair.
John Fredericks, Katsina carver
It takes two weeks to complete one.

Some of John's Katsinas
Highlights of the trip for me beyond what I learned about the Hopi:

1) Visit to Walpi Village located on the very very narrow First Mesa. It is one of three villages on First Mesa and most closely resembles what we might call a "pueblo". The houses are built of stones hauled up from the desert floor below. The villagers decided to keep their place intact by not installing electricity or water. So, the majority of them built houses below the mesa (our guide's house was directly below in front (east-facing). But the village is used for many festivals when families treat it as "camping out" to go up to the old houses. Of interest, a few young men have decided to take up residence in the original Walpi village and now live there.

2) The Hopi are not tidy by our standards. They let their old dilapidated houses continue to decay while they live in new concrete-block structures, some with facades of stucco. Electricity to many homes is provided by solar panels. Energy is stored in batteries and is used judiciously to run TVs, iPads, iPhones, etc.  Sometimes that means not using any other electricity while running the microwave for several minutes!

3) The Hopi petroglyph archeological visit to Dawa Park was the most extensive view of petroglyphs in one place I've ever seen. 
Took only close-ups including this one showing birds

Some participants viewing petroglyphs on natural rock varnish
4) Visit to a piki bread-making oven. This, as I recall, was on Second Mesa. Many homes have separate small piki houses where the bread is made from one of their colorful corns: red, blue, white, yellow - depending on the celebration. Pam Ovah  treated us to some blue-corn piki that she had made previously. She also was a server in the dining area at the Hopi Cultural Center, keeping us full of coffee, scrambled eggs, blue-corn pancakes, etc. at breakfast.

Piki bread house with deep-set natural oven with stone-top for spreading the paste "dough"
Pam, demonstrating the 3-ingredient batter for the piki bread
Pam at the oven pit using her bare hand to spread the paste that becomes piki bread
Rolled, this blue-corn piki bread was served our final evening when we all gathered at a long table for a homemade meal from Ray and his wife, Lorraine, (who had prepared the meal) consisting of hominy stew, peppers, fry bread and hot tea with this wafer-thin blue-corn piki bread and watermelon for dessert.

Most of our group at the long table for our homemade meal


My visit exceeded expectations and several of the Hopi women who were with us off and on during the week extended an invitation to return to see some of their ceremonies. Propitiously, it rained just before we left.


PART II - BIRDING OUR WAY SOUTH VIA APACHE COUNTY


Ferruginous Hawk along Route 180 west of Concho, AZ

Western Grebe at Lyman Lake (rain)

Western Bluebird, female; Lyman Lake

Two Sandhill Cranes at marsh-end of Lake Lyman in rain

Sage Thrasher, Lyman Lake

Western Meadowlark, singing and posing, Becker Lake
We would make other birding stops at Greer and Sunrise Ski Resort on the way home for target birds that didn't show up!  Sunrise, again, was closed off even though it was a weekend!

It was a marvelous trip with diverse and interesting participants. At mealtime, on the vans and at our discussion groups in the evening we got to know one another quite well. 


Hopi never say "good-bye" so I'll use their expression, "Until we meet again".



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Saguaro Lake - Butcher Jones Beach area, Maricopa County, AZ

October 22, 2015
The invigorating temperature of 58° at 7:15 got me off to a good start. First bird I saw on the north side of the overflow parking area when I pulled in was a Crissal Thrasher - not usually on my daily checklist. My binoculars and camera were in the trunk!  Dang!  

Butcher Jones Beach, at a cove of Saguaro Lake, is surrounded by rocks and desert hills with washes — great habitat for a variety of birds. And with that first sighting, I quickly parked the car, grabbed my gear and walked slowly into the desert north of the lot. Birds…here…there…everywhere.

Rock Wren showed up quickly followed by Black-tailed Gnatcatchers that were abundant today. A small covey of Gambel’s Quail lifted into the air with their “spik”call notes, flying just high enough to pass over the embankment east of me and down out of sight.

The tinkling sound of the Black-throated Sparrow was present, but it took quite a while to come face to face to with one. Cactus Wrens (our largest wren) were out and about and not shy.  

Cactus Wren

Best sighting in that area was a Willow Flycatcher, perhaps a bit late in leaving.

Willow Flycatcher


But that was followed by BIRD DRAMA.  I spotted a Greater Roadrunner going along the ridge of the embankment well beyond where I stood.  Suddenly, a raptor lifted up from below the hill and swooped the roadrunner who accelerated quickly. The Cooper’s Hawk continued to fly out over the desert so the roadrunner ran for cover down to plants and shrubs on the desert floor.

Next, I birded the cove area and followed the walking trail to Peregrine Point.  It’s not a long walk but birds interrupted me so often, it took me over an hour to bird that short bit.

This Great-tailed Grackle was down in the edge of the marsh reeds.  Note the plastic wrap the grackle tossed before carrying its “breakfast bonanza” to a different spot. 

The light on this Great-tailed Grackle was gorgeous.

YUM!



Farther out in the cove was a Double-crested Cormorant which can be distinguished from the more common Neotropic Cormorant by its orange lore, bill and skin at the base of the bill. In contrast, the Neotropic is smaller, sleeker, longer-tailed and has a V-shaped white border on its chin-patch.

Double-crested Cormorant

As I neared Peregrine Point, swallows filled the air. From what I observed, I estimated about 8 Violet-green Swallows and 10 Northern Rough-winged.  Today was a camera-practice day.


Northern Rough-winged Swallow
Violet-green Swallow

A very difficult bird to photograph well is the Black-tailed Gnatcatcher because it’s always moving. I consider myself lucky when I see the bird this clearly.

Black-tailed Gnatcatcher

Despite its name, there is some white on the underside of its tail but not nearly as much as on that of the Blue-Gray Gnatcatcher.  Making use of a failed photo shot, here is the under-tail pattern of the Black-tailed Gnatcatcher.




With this, my favorite gnatcatcher, I got lucky today and managed several full photos like this:

Black-tailed Gnatcatcher

As I returned toward the picnic area, Lindsay and her Dad, Dick, were coming my way. As usual, we compared notes before continuing our separate ways. It’s always fun to come upon other birders in the field.

The most unusual sighting I had was a very good one for me.  I heard a bird sound I didn’t recognize and tracked it down to a Canyon Wren. This bird has a beautiful cascading song, but its call is very short and buzzy. It was poking around the ground at the base of some rocks northwest of the picnic area and all my photos were of its back end.

Here is one I took earlier in the year.

Canyon Wren

A satisfying day in the field is a good thing!

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Three Stops along the Lower Salt River, Maricopa County, AZ

Thursday, October 15, 2015
Three stops along the Salt River this morning delivered 36 good species of birds for Julie Clark and I to feast our eyes on.

Stop #1:  At Granite Reef we dipped on the rare bird I heard on Monday (Red-breasted Nuthatch) but picked up a brilliant Vermilion Flycatcher and a couple Marsh Wrens.

Stop #2:  The pond east of Granite Reef (Moorhen City Marsh) is well named for its major population of Common Gallinule (that used to be called moorhens).

Commotion at this east pond was loud but with tall reeds blocking our view, it was difficult to see what was causing the disruption. Alarm calls were rising from the reeds.

By the time we reached the dirt causeway created by the monsoons of 2014, we could see both east and west on this backwater tributary and the commotion had settled. Mostly, we were looking at Common Gallinule (adults and juvies) as well as some American Coots. Vegetation had grown on the causeway since my last visit so clear photos through it were hard to come by. Julie counted 12 Common Gallinule and 9 American Coots within throwing distance of us. Many more live within the reeds.  

Juvenile Common Gallinule (foreground) with adult male (background)


Juvenile & Adult Common Gallinule
American Coots are found on so many bodies of water, they're more familiar to most of us.  The Gallinules are sleeker and have a racing stripe on their sides. In these photos it looks more like a feathered stripe. The male has a red frontal plate and bill, tipped with yellow. The juvie is a bland gray brown color; its bill showing a white tip.

Just as we decided to leave, a Cooper’s Hawk flew over scaring from the tall marsh grasses a flock of suddenly vocal Yellow-headed Blackbirds. The Cooper’s had probably made a pass upon our arrival, too.

Stop #3:  Already very happy with our birding luck, we continued on to see what we might find flying or perched or screaming at Coon Bluff. First good sighting there, before we even got out of the car, was doing none of those things: it was walking!




In addition to the Roadrunner we saw driving in, there were two in the parking lot so I stopped in the road before entering, shut off the engine, got out and snapped pictures. This is the second time I’ve found them hanging out on the edges and in the parking lot at Coon Bluff. It’s a good year for seeing them out and about. It wasn’t until a truck drove in and passed me to park in the lot that the Roadrunner disappeared into the desert.



This Roadrunner, very close to the car, went over to Julie's side!


Walking the dirt road, then, toward the bluff, we noted that the gate blocking traffic was open. This usually happens when a licensed vendor brings kayaks and people to the river. We could see a big tent ahead of us but fortunately got caught up in the birds around us. 

After seeing Phainopepla, Gila Woodpecker, Northern Cardinal and some White-crowned Sparrows, I called Julie’s attention to the bird I was looking at right along our trail.  Foraging on a mesquite branch close to us, it was blue-gray above, rufous below, had a very pointy bill and when we finally saw its head, it had the combo black eye line and long white eyebrow. YAY! The Red-breasted Nuthatch!! Maybe it flew here from Granite Reef. Or, maybe there are several around the river sites. I don’t really know but I’m delighted we got on this one. Too active for a photo, it eventually flew from the mesquite on the left to one on the right, before taking off into the forest.  Ahhhh. Our good birding day continued!

By now, we were closing in on that big tent that held a lot of people some of whom were children of varying ages, plus a couple dogs. Their big red truck was parked there so I assumed they carried a permit.

We focused on the bluff and the river. While I found no Bald Eagles on the bluff, Julie came up with a tiny bird on a pebbly island in the river. It wasn’t a sandpiper; it looked like a Rock Wren to me but I took a photo for a closer look. Sure enough, the magnified photo showed a Rock Wren. By the time we tried to re-find it, it had flown to the bluff where we could hear it calling.  Later we came upon another Rock Wren on the sandy bank by the river under a tamarisk tree. Anomalies like this (ROWR in the sand?) are as much fun for me as finding a new bird.

Just then, a red car drove past us in the sand. Whaatt?? With the gate open, some guy decided to drive his family right to river’s edge for some photos. Not cool! He was still there twenty minutes later when we passed his parked vehicle to continue birding the east side of that area.

Always on the alert for Bald Eagles along the river, Julie spied some white birds soaring very very high above. Too white for the BAEA, it turned out to be two Great Egrets circling at heights I’d never seen before. So, I can chalk up another new and irregular bird behavior!

While we were looking at them, we spied a Black Vulture circling below the egrets. We hadn’t seen a single Turkey Vulture yet and a Black Vulture is harder to come by, so we were thrilled with that sighting as well.

A few Violet-green Swallows over the river grew to a flock of at least 26 while we listened to the rattle of a Belted Kingfisher that we would soon see along the river’s bank. 

Lindsay Story and her father (Dick) were walking our way so we compared notes. With her spotting scope, Lindsay found a hawk up on the bluff but none of us could come up with a definitive ID from the rear view it provided: very dark and large bird overall with some mottling — probably a Red-tailed.

Julie and I continued walking through the mesquite bosque back toward the car.  (Lindsay had entered from that direction.)  Bewick’s Wren, Gilded Flickers and Vermilion Flycatchers delighted us along the way.

Until next time, here’s lookin’ at you.

Spotted Sandpiper




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First Bird Walk of the Season at Lost Dutchman State Park, Pinal County, AZ

October 14, 2015
"High Season" in the desert - when snowbirds (people) begin to arrive - usually brings at least comfortable weather. Temperatures are supposed to cool down a bit.

But not today!  With six participants, three of whom were smart home-schooled children with binoculars, we took our time to provide good looks at desert species new to them.  

Since I rarely take photos when I lead a walk, the ones included here have been taken at Lost Dutchman earlier this year.

Male Gambel's Quail in Spring
Numerous quail at different locations delighted the young birders who became adept at identifying them when they crossed in front of us or ran beneath trees and shrubs in the desert.

Even the small Black-tailed Gnatcatchers were evident to them when they flitted around in nearby shrubs.  Today's male gnatcatchers were in their basic gray plumage - minus the black cap feathers of mating season.

Black-tailed Gnatcatcher
The Black-throated Sparrow was not seen as easily as the Gnatcatcher because it hugs the low thick parts of shrubs and grasses. It perched up once for a good look.

Black-throated Sparrow
From my perspective, it was good to see the Phainopepla had returned for the winter after going to cooler places during the hot months. As leader, there's not a better bird to capture the attention of "newbies". Too distant to spot its red eye, the Phainopepla did give us several good looks from its usual high perch.

Male Phainopepla (Silky Flycatcher)
Birds quieted down after 10:00 just as we began to wilt in the 85-90° direct sunlight.  In some shade near our cars, we used the LDSP Bird Check List so the participants could remember what they saw on this date.

Jamie, Sarah, Sam, Bryn, Shea, Myka

A fun day in the desert for all of us!

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